"Baking" a bowling ball

[TGDbowler]

I read an article online about a technique about removing "soaked up" oil from a bowling ball. This technique was to put the ball into the oven at 200 degress until the oil started to "bleed" from the ball. Take the ball out, wipe the oil off and repeat until no more bleeding has occured. I have tested this technique a few days ago and my ball hooks a few more boards. I should say that my ball stopped hooking after it sat in my bag for 3 months due to Hurricane Katrina. My ball just absorbed so much oil my ball wouldn't even hook on the driest of lanes. I should also say that my ball DID NOT crack under the heat and a lot of oil was released giving me back about 7-10 boards. I was just wondering if any else has heard of this or even tried this technique. And if you tried this, what were your results?

[KNIGHT]

Might have to try that with an older ball to see if I get the same results.

[Ziggy]

It can work to some extent. You have to be careful about thermal shock. Any quick change in the temp of the cover can cause it to crack. There is a ball rejuvenator on the market that is basically a heat lamp to do the same thing. Many manufacturers will not support this and will void a warranty. It may help any old ball though.

Ziggy

[KNIGHT]

Thanks for the info Ziggy

[Tonx]

Ok, here we go again.....

This is a direct quote from an Aussie Polymer Chemist, that did an experiment on the issue.


I baked some 'oil' out of an SD73 by sitting it on a plate in the sun. Did an analysis on a state of the art gas chromatograph/mass spec combo of the slop out of the ball and a sample of lane oil, and they were totally different chemically. Further, the slop matched the resin additives in a Columbia patent for a reactive coverstock.

What bleeds out is not oil. It is resin. It didn't even have detectable amounts of oil in it. Which surprised me, because up until then I thought the resin bleed story was garbage.

So, why? Resin balls are thermoset urethane, and continue to cure for (in some cases) years, very slightly shrinking as they do. This, plus the effect of surface heat (which accelerates the surface cure) and the continual pressure of the ball on the lane forces too much plasticiser to the surface of the ball. A VERY fine film is needed to enhance friction with dry lane - too much acts as lubricant. It is a shear effect. Remove the excess, fix the ball. All the hook again system does is do it really well. Well maintained balls that are washed and resurfaced regularly, last for many, many games more than poorly maintained gear, and are much easier to rejuvinate when necessary.
On resurfacing, more often is better, usually. A ball given a very light sand and repolish (for shiny stuff) every 2-3 months will outlast a ball that is used for a year then needs 120 grit to get the track out by 2 or 3 to 1 and perform better as well.

You CANNOT remove all the resin from a ball in anything like normal use. Resin coverstocks, according to the Columbia patent, are from 5% to 25% resin additive. Say 100 grams to half a kilo for a 15lb ball. That's a lot of resin to bleed out. - you'd need a hi-vacuum oven or a week in a dioxane bath (that did work, incidentally) to get that much out.

FWIW, i think that the reduction in 'hit' (as opposed to 'hook') in older balls, could be due to microfracturing of the coverstock over time. No evidence either for or against, just the opinion of a polymer chemist (me). Need a microtome and a phase contrast microscope to find out - anyone got one handy

[Tonx]

And my words/knowlege:

The Urethane and plasticiser (which makes up a bowling ball) is Thermally conductive (hence the title: thermoset urethane.) As the ball tracks over the surface, it generates friction, which in turn generates heat. This causes migration of certain composites (ie: plasticiser) to the track area.

The reaction (and purpose) of plasticiser is similar to talcum powder used for grip purposes. Too much, and you slide, JUST the RIGHT amount, and it adds friction. Even distribution is a must for obvious reasons. When a build up happens in the track area, it loses friction potential.

Heating the ball is like a 'reset.' it spreads out the plasticiser again, and restores (to a certain extent) friction potential. The 'oil' that comes out, is actually the thermoset urethane being forced out by the 'movement' of the chemical composition of the actual ball. As Robbie (the scientist that wrote the original piece) stated, its quite difficult to subtract the entire amount of urethane from a reactive bowling ball.

There are 2 different HOME methods that I recommend.

Hot water bucket, degreaser, good detergent, and a fingernail scrubbing brush. Let soak for 5-10 minutes at a time, scrub at surface of ball. repeat a couple of times as because the water gets colder. The amount of repeats depends on the condition of the ball, but I brought back a 10 year old Storm Thunder Road in 3 baths, combined with the next method;


Stick it out in the sun, and wipe the resin off as it leaks. Use 1 part degreaser, 1 part Good detergent, and 15 parts water on a microfibre towel until it no longer bleeds. Then use a damp cloth soaked with water to make sure all cleaning agents are off the surface.

Best of luck, and if you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask :D

[Glenn]

Seems to me like it would be alot easier just to get a new one. Damn that is alot to remember.:D

[Tonx]

Seems to me like it would be alot easier just to get a new one. Damn that is alot to remember.:D


Tonx shows his true nerd side......

I agree with your theory too, however I can't bear to part with my OI, so I do this regularly!

[Turbocoach]

Tonx,

Good job you are right on target on this one! Just a little soap and warm/hot water does just a good a job as well.
For those that havent tried it take a new ball without hole in it and put some heat ex: lighter or heat lamp and watch the plasticiser bleed out.

[EvilCamaroSS]

Alot of guys at my local lanes even an EX-pro (who is sponsored by ebonite :D ) told me to use something a bit different..

They said to take Non-Acetone Nail Polish remover and wipe the ball down with it to remove the oil soaked up by the coverstock and then wash the ball with a good soap and hot water bath I do this bi-weekley and it works great!

[TheBigEZ]

Hot water baths work well if you do them often. If you need to "bake" an older ball with a ton of games, or a ball you got used and are unsure of the game, i like to use another method. Helps to live somewhere like TX like me, where its always hot, but you can use this another way also if you're not getting help from mother nature.

First, you get a bucket with a lid. You can find at any home depot like store, or even a bowling center, take it from the snack bar when they all the pickles run out. Anyway...next you go buy a bag of kitty litter or the litter like sandy substance used to soak up oil. Fill the bucket a little more than 1/4 of the way, so that the bottom is covered at the very least, with some more room to cusion and soak. Using tape, doesnt really matter what kind, cover the holes (all holes, thumb/finger/balance), you probably want to take out any griping tape before covering the holes or you'll have a goo mess when you're done. Place the ball in the litter, and pour the rest of the bag, or whatever fits on top of the ball, making sure it is fully covered. Place the lid on, and put the bucket outside in the sun for a full day. The oil will bleed out of the ball, and be absorbed by the kitty litter. If the temp isn't hot enough outside, place the bucket, at least half needs to be submurged, into hot water. Same thing, ball will bleed and the kitty litter will soak. If its hot enough, you can just place the ball inthe yard in the sunlight, walk out every 10-15 min with a bottle of 409, shoot it and wipe the oil that's bleeding out of it, turning it over when you do so. Never tried the oven, heard too many times of inserts and plug melting and covers cracking.

[VoiceOfReason]

Look all that sounds great and i'm sure it all works to some extent. I have a different method you all could try. I stumbled across this in a heat of passion with my wife. I had my balls out putting new tape in the holes preparing for a tournament when my wife came in to the room butt naked. So i obviously quit putting tape in my holes and found another hole and plugged it up creating some friction of my own. When the friction caused me to elevate a load of *** toward the headboard but i missed and it landed on the surface of my bowling balls. Quickly finding a rag i wiped both balls clean because it was a HOSE of a load. Went practicing the next day and man i have never seen my equipment react that way. If you would have been there you would have thought the 1-3 pocket was a fertile ovarian egg. Just give it a try and please report back to me please.

[KNIGHT]

David that is some funny shit there. Will have to try it next time bowling.

[EvilCamaroSS]

Look all that sounds great and i'm sure it all works to some extent. I have a different method you all could try. I stumbled across this in a heat of passion with my wife. I had my balls out putting new tape in the holes preparing for a tournament when my wife came in to the room butt naked. So i obviously quit putting tape in my holes and found another hole and plugged it up creating some friction of my own. When the friction caused me to elevate a load of *** toward the headboard but i missed and it landed on the surface of my bowling balls. Quickly finding a rag i wiped both balls clean because it was a HOSE of a load. Went practicing the next day and man i have never seen my equipment react that way. If you would have been there you would have thought the 1-3 pocket was a fertile ovarian egg. Just give it a try and please report back to me please.

I'm gonna go try it right now! :D